Review: Amarcord

Amarcord London
75 Southampton Row
London WC1B 4ET
0207 636 5250
amarcordlondon.co.uk 

So yesterday was my 28th birthday (why thank you, so very kind, you're right I DON'T look that old!).

Having already had the big party with friends at The Parcel Yard in Kings Cross I just wanted a quiet family Sunday lunch and Amarcord in Bloomsbury provided us with exactly that.

When we got to the restaurant we were the only people there. I don't think they have a big lunch crowd on a Sunday being a little bit out of the way from most of central London's tourist spots. They have another branch round the corner from the British Museum which I think is probably a little busier for lunches. We had a few other people coming in, one booked table, the rest just footfall but throughout our whole time there it was pretty quiet. I can imagine that a full evening service is loud, vibrant and good fun! The staff who looked after us were friendly and professional and made a few jokes (about my advanced AGE, but we won't go into that).

Food is very good. This is not a place that's doing anything particular innovative. These are not flavours and impressions of Italy, artificially modernized and grafted onto a foam or a powder. There is no deconstruction. Everything says what it does on the tin. There's a spaghetti bolognese, a mushroom risotto and a tiramisu. But each one was very well done. Portion size is reasonable as well, you're not frightened off by a pile of spaghetti that's aimed more at a family of four, nor are you left to surreptitiously google the nearest McDonalds for the way home (something I've actually done after a meal once!). My starter was delicious, the salty dry meat of the prosciutto complementing the sweet juicy melon. Other members of our party had seafood which was apparently very fresh and perfectly cooked. Deciding against being adventurous, I went for a lasagne as a main course. The ratio of meat ragu to pasta (which, again, tasted fresh) was exactly right, and went very well with the side of green beans, simply dressed with butter and black pepper. The house special of tiramisu was light and creamy with enough sharp bitter espresso to offset the sweet liqueur.

Overall if you're looking for somewhere warm, friendly and traditional, a proper Italian trattoria in London, this is the ideal venue. Will definitely be returning!